Select three of the four boards to use as side boards. Switch out the table saw blade to a dado blade (if available) and be sure to do test cuts to see that the dado slot accommodates the exact thickness of your board. They'll each be a little under, depending on the kerf of the blade. Cut the 4' x 2' board down to four equally sized boards, each approximately 1' x 2'. Starting with the 1/2" ply, identify the front and back of the plywood and label them (preferably the insides using light pencil).Ĭut the boards to size 1. App updates, card installations, and card settings can all change. Be prepared to debug your setup, even after you've made the initial connection. The connection between the Eye-Fi card and iPad can be fickle.
#View dslr photo view on ipad full
Click on any image to enlarge and stay in this view for the images to come in full screen. If you've set everything up correctly, the images should come straight through. That will be red when it's not connected and green when it is. You should notice an icon on the top right of the gallery view with the camera connecting to a mobile device with a hand in front. (Again - if anyone know more about this than me, please teach me best practices.)Ĥ.
Optional step - I recommend turning on Airplane Mode here for faster photo transfers. On the iPad, connect to the Eye Fi network under Wi-Fi networks.ģb. Take a photo with the camera to wake up the network.ģ. You'll need that to 'wake up' the network. You can adjust the display modes in the application. The Eye Fi card has its own app for the iPad and other mobile devices and that's what's displaying the photos on the iPad. I find it helps to set the iPad in Airplane mode once you're connected to the Eye-Fi card network to help the photos transfer quickly. After this, follow the directions for setting up your card. The Eye-Fi card establishes its own wifi 'network' which becomes visible after taking a photo. Put the SD card in the camera, connect the intervalometer to the camera and program it as you'd like. The connection for most of this is obvious once you've gathered the supplies. I chose 4 photos after a 3 second delay with 3 seconds in between each pose. The last piece is this intervalometer which can be set to take a set number of photos after an initial delay with a pause in between each photo. I used an iPad2 because I wanted the images to be large enough to be viewed from farther away. Any camera that takes an SD card will work - I used the Canon XSi - and a mobile device that can speak to the Eye-Fi Card such as an iPhone or iPad.
The key to this project is the small, yellow SD card in the middle: an EYE-FI card. We got a lot of great shots because people were surprised, but it would feel more refined with this feature.Īs with most of my projects, I made it Techshop! Thanks to the Instructables community for the great questions that gave me the motivation to revisit this project and make it better. This redesign has a few benefits over the original, including a straightforward construction using only plywood instead of building on an external structure (which is also a good bit cheaper not to mention faster), and best of all, the whole thing flat-packs! I'm still working on one final improvement as soon as I get my hands on a broken iPad - more on that later :-) My next improvement for this project would be a visible countdown before the photos are taken to prepare people. For simplicity, I decided not to include a print out of the photos, though there are additions to this setup that would allow that. I knew it should be lightweight, easily portable, and I preferred using as much equipment that I could repurpose for other photography projects. After deciding to build a photobooth, I had a few constraints. This is a redesign, incorporating the aspects that worked the best - the hardware and the messaging on the front. After building a photobooth for our wedding, I realized I learned quite a bit that I could do differently after learning the constraints of the project.
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